rivka: (ice cream)
[personal profile] rivka
Last night, [livejournal.com profile] wcg and I went to the Helmand, an Afghan restaurant just a couple of blocks from my house. We'd both heard about this place for a while, and I'd gotten a personal recommendation from a guy who runs a fast-food place called Afghan Kabob. (He's related to the Helmand people somehow, I think.) I was expecting something a lot like Afghan Kabob, only with a liquor license - kabobs, rice, cucumber-and-yogurt salads, simple tasty food.

Not quite.

I started my meal with kaddo borawni, not because it looked like it was going to be the sort of thing I usually like, but because it's a dish the restaurant is famous for. I got several large pieces of golden orange baked pumpkin, served on a pool of a sharp garlicky yogurt sauce. I would never have dreamed of mixing those flavors together - sweet, sharp, garlic - but the intense collision of flavors worked marvelously in a way I can't even begin to explain. I wouldn't want to eat more than an appetizer-sized portion - I think my brain would probably leak out my ears - but in a small, concentrated dose it was incredibly good. Mmm.

For the main course, I had korma mahi, sea bass stewed in ginger, with mint, whole peeled tomatoes, and red potatoes, served with Afghan-style rice studded with cardamom seeds and the occasional raisin. I wanted to climb up on the table and roll around in my plate. The sea bass had a bit of a seared crust, and then melted away in my mouth. The sauce was intensely flavorful without being too spicy - except for maybe the time I bit down on an unidentified chunk of vegetable and discovered it to be fresh ginger root. Apparently when they say "stewed with ginger," they mean "stewed with ginger." And I couldn't stop eating the delicately spiced rice even after I was groaningly full.

[livejournal.com profile] wcg, who must have a hollow leg, wanted to order the special dessert of the house - vanilla ice cream mixed with fresh-ground cardamom, dates, dried figs, and fresh mango. He got two spoons, but I couldn't manage more than a few bites. I love spice-flavored ice cream, and this was no exception. The little chunks of dried fruit were delicious, although I would've preferred the mango flavor to come through a bit more strongly.

And the bill, for this incredible three-course gourmet feast (plus a beer for me and iced tea for [livejournal.com profile] wcg)? $43. Forty-three dollars. You'd better believe I'm going to go back, and back, and back.

Date: 2003-06-29 08:12 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xiphias.livejournal.com
I wonder what the word "Helmand" means, because there's a wonderful Afghani restaurant in Boston named the same thing. Kaddo borawani is one of their signature dishes, too, although they serve it in a sauce that includes ground beef.

Now I'm really hungry. . .

Re:

Date: 2003-06-29 08:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
Helmand is apparently a place (http://medlem.spray.se/afghan/Helmand_eng.htm). And the Helmands in Boston and San Francisco are owned by the same family as the one in Baltimore, so I bet it really is very similar.

The family who run it are Karzais - the guy who runs the Baltimore restaurant is Hamid Karzai's brother. He's also founded an NGO called Afghans for Civil Society (http://www.afghansforcivilsociety.org/), which looks like a good thing.

Date: 2003-06-29 08:32 am (UTC)
ext_6418: (Default)
From: [identity profile] elusis.livejournal.com
Oooo, envy! One of the best meals I've ever had was at an Afghani restaurant on St. Mark's in Manhattan, but there is no similar restaurant in Denver. I've heard rumors that one just opened in Aurora but haven't made it out there to check it out myself. Afghan food is *delicious* - I love the use of pumpkin, and fruit with meat.

Date: 2003-06-29 10:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ororo.livejournal.com
Sounds totally scrumptious! Next time I'm up that way, can we go there?

Date: 2003-06-29 02:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
Are you kidding? Would I pass up an excuse to go back? Of course we'll go!

Date: 2003-06-29 02:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wcg.livejournal.com
It was, indeed, quite wonderful. The company, of course, was delightful.

Date: 2003-06-29 07:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cattitude.livejournal.com
They tend to spell/pronounce it "boulani kadoo" around here, and isn't it wonderful?

Do they have toorshi? They're heavily vinegared pickles with some mint added, and they go very well on a hot day.

Date: 2003-06-29 07:14 pm (UTC)
melebeth: (Default)
From: [personal profile] melebeth
So that's why there was no one there tonight who I knew!!! You had dinner 24 hours early. First time in years I've been there without bumping into anyone.

(I'm in B'more for work and stopped there for dinner after driving down)

Date: 2003-06-29 11:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ranunculus.livejournal.com
MMM. We have eaten at the San Francisco version occasionly. Yum.

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