rivka: (foodie)
[personal profile] rivka
I took a break from being a stressbunny last night and had dinner at Charleston with [livejournal.com profile] minnehaha B., who was passing through town.

Wow.

tiny cube of tuna tartare

The menu (warning: PDF) sent me directly into choice paralysis. Our server described it as a "tasting menu" (although the portions turned out to be larger than you'd expect, given that description) and explained that we could choose three to six courses from the seven sections listed: "hot," "cool," "the season" (highlighting a particular ingredient that's in season; last night it was blue crab), "fish and shellfish," birds and game," "meats," and "cheese." The final category, "sweets," was obligatory - it didn't count as one of our courses. To complicate matters, it was possible to choose more than one course from the same category.

After considerable debate, we settled on a menu. I've reconstructed it here from pictures and from the items that were also listed on the menu posted on the website (apparently, it changes daily); [livejournal.com profile] minnehaha saved an actual menu, and hopefully he'll correct anything I've left out. We split most things down the middle.

They started us off with an amuse bouche - that's the picture up above the LJ cut. It was a small cube of raw tuna topped with shards of jalapeno, and served on something crispy that might have been a homemade potato chip. Gorgeous piece of fish.

First course: shellfish bisque with lobster, crab, shrimp, and cognac (me), jumbo shrimp topped with tiny cubes of sausage, served with grits (B.). Yes, actually grits. I had never even had them before. They were creamy and bland, but a good vehicle for the pan sauce. The shrimp were firm and mild, dotted with intensely flavored tiny sausage bits. My shellfish bisque was surprisingly light - it had a beautifully delicate flavor and luxurious mouthfeel without screaming RICH RICH RICH. I had trouble sharing it.

shellfish bisque

shrimp

Second course: Pan-roasted sea scallops with pine nuts, orange, capers & lemon beurre blanc (me), crispy softshell crab with cress (B.). I loved my fish course. The sweetness of scallops goes very well with the sweetness of orange, and the crispy pine nuts added a great textural contrast. B.'s lightly battered and fried softshell crab was delicious. I think there was cornmeal in the coating.

Alas, I forgot that I was photo-documenting every course until partway through this one, so the scallops are partly eaten and the crab has been dismembered.

scallops and oranges

softshell crab

Third course: Grilled magret of duck, Bing cherries, red wine gastrique (me), roasted pheasant breast, fennel, English pea sauce (B.). My duck was excellent - rich, meaty, medium-rare slices of breast topped with tart cherries and a red wine reduction. I am almost always a fan of meat-fruit combinations, and this was a perfect exemplar of the genre. But B.'s pheasant breast was even better, one of the two star dishes of the evening. They could've brought out the crispy skin alone, and I would have been perfectly satisfied. The fresh English pea sauce had just a touch of sweetness, and was swirled on the plate with a pan sauce from the pheasant.

duck with bing cherries

pheasant, fennel, English peas

Fourth course: Venison loin, mango compote (shared). When we announced that we were sharing this course, the restaurant obligingly split it into two servings for us. This was the other star of the evening. Wow. Blood-rare venison, just lightly seared at the edges, with a stunning mango sauce. As much as I enjoy meat and fruit (as previously mentioned), I wouldn't have thought of mango with red meat. It worked perfectly.

venison loin, mango compote

Fifth course: Cheese (shared). We were supposed to choose three cheeses from the cart, but the server was easily talked into giving us a little bit of everything, instead. Twelve cheeses, of which about half were spectacular and only a couple were forgettable.

cheese

Dessert: Chocolate caramel bombe with ginger caramel sauce (me), black raspberry tart in, I think, vanilla creme Anglaise (B.). I was not very hungry at this point, and a rich dessert like this one was wasted on me. I took two or three bites, enough to register that it was RICH RICH RICH, and put my fork down. If the ginger sauce had been spicier and less sweet, it might've been enough of a stimulus to finish the dish - instead, it was bland. I liked B.'s black raspberry tart much better. They included an extra little plate of treats - why they thought we had room, I have no idea.

chocolate caramel bombe

black raspberry tart

It was an amazing meal: excellent food, exquisite service, great company. Just what I needed, after the day I'd had.

Date: 2006-06-30 09:02 pm (UTC)
ext_2918: (foodgecko)
From: [identity profile] therealjae.livejournal.com
Okay, WOW. That "tasting menu" idea sounds fantastic!

-J

Date: 2006-07-01 01:19 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
When I win the lottery, we will go there together. ;-)

But yes, I loved the concept. It really is overwhelming to have such a massive number of options, but once you get over the initial shock, it's lovely. I love having the opportunity to try so many different things - and also the opportunity to try very strongly flavored things that might not work as a whole plateful of food.

Mmmmm.
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
I'm sitting here looking at the menu, and it's not *that* expensive. Save $5 out of your mad money for a year and you can treat anyone you want there.

K. [or less than a year, if you also throw in the money you stop spending on lottery tix ;-)]
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
Wait, you mean that I'm supposed to be buying tickets for the lottery?

And the conditions have less to do with how much money I actually have, than how much money [livejournal.com profile] therealjae would let me spend on her. I figure I'd have to be dripping with diamonds before she'd be willing to drop her insistence that we go dutch on everything. ;-)
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
Maybe she can save a little of her mad money, too. :-)

K.
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
I think people in relationships should divide tasks according to their strengths.

B

Date: 2006-06-30 09:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kightp.livejournal.com
*drool*

I'm dyin' here, Rivka. Dyin', I tell you.

*focuses on farmer's market tomorrow and fresh-picked raspberries*

*stops dying*

*fails to stop drooling*

Date: 2006-06-30 10:35 pm (UTC)

Date: 2006-06-30 11:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] minnaleigh.livejournal.com
That sounds wonderful! Thanks for sharing!

Date: 2006-06-30 11:19 pm (UTC)
melebeth: (Default)
From: [personal profile] melebeth
How do you get drool out of a laptop keyboard?

I have a love/hate relationship with tasting menus. I love getting to try everything. I hate how incredibly ill I feel after eating that much :)

Date: 2006-06-30 11:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] aint2nuts.livejournal.com
wow. I want to eat there. Yummy.

Date: 2006-07-01 02:09 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] porcinea.livejournal.com
SHRIMP AND GRITS!!!!! It's a signature dish of Charleston. Er, the city.

WE *MUST* GO. *PLEASE*!!!!!

Teh yum. *faints*

Date: 2006-07-01 03:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tammylc.livejournal.com
Looks and sounds great - thanks for the review and the pics. (Nice food photography, by the way - not everyone has the knack.)

Date: 2006-07-01 10:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
Thanks! B.'s food came out better-lit than mine - I must have been casting too much of a shadow on my own plate, or maybe I was just too close - but overall I'm very happy with how the pictures turned out.

Date: 2006-07-01 04:59 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
What cheeses did you especially like?

K.

Date: 2006-07-01 10:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
Oh gosh. Um. The... first one, and the eleventh one, and...

Seriously, I'm not sure, and I can't even use the online menu as a cheat sheet because I can tell that some of the cheeses are different. There was an exceptional chevre, and a very very good blue cheese, and a sharp cheddar that I think was called "Lancashire poacher," and a delicious double creme that was wrapped in ferns.

Date: 2006-07-01 11:41 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] papersky.livejournal.com
Lancashire poacher is a smoked Lancashire. I used to buy it in the farmer's market in Lancaster -- it comes in "cobbles", small round cheeses the size and shape of cobblestones. It isn't pasteurized, and it's lovely. I'm amazed it gets as far as Baltimore.

Date: 2006-07-01 03:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
Unpasteurized cheeses are the secret contraband of the foodie world.

K.

Date: 2006-07-01 11:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
B. corrects me and says that the correct name is Lincolnshire poacher. I suppose that's a different cheese entirely? Why "poacher?"

Cheese Course

Date: 2006-07-01 03:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
We should be able to do better than this. I have the menu, and we have the photograph.

The first cheese was the Bouche du Poitou. Oddly enough, it's not in my French cheese book. Kind of like a St. Maure, only much more minerally.

The eleventh one is the aged pecorino.

The Lincolnshire Poacher was definitely the sharp cheddar.

The double creme wrapped in ferns was the new cheese, and not on the menu.

The blue was Harbourne Blue from Devon.

B

Re: Cheese Course

Date: 2006-07-01 11:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rivka.livejournal.com
The eleventh one should be the non-Tazmanian blue, because we had twelve cheeses and the two blue cheeses were last.

If the double creme wrapped in ferns was the new cheese, it was a brie de meaux, or one of the other infinite sets of letters that are pronounced "oh" in French.

Re: Cheese Course

Date: 2006-07-02 12:48 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
"The eleventh one should be the non-Tazmanian blue, because we had twelve cheeses and the two blue cheeses were last."

Oh. I looked at the picture and counted thirteen cheeses, but I mistook that crumb at the lower left for another cheese. You're right.

"If the double creme wrapped in ferns was the new cheese, it was a brie de meaux, or one of the other infinite sets of letters that are pronounced 'oh' in French."

Brie de Meaux. It's an AOC cheese, so there are a lot of rules about it. Delicious stuff. I can find nothing about it being legal to wrap it in ferns, but that doesn't prove anything.

B

Date: 2006-07-05 03:18 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pegkerr.livejournal.com
Oh, yes. Doing a tasting menu with [livejournal.com profile] minnehaha B is FUN!

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